Retention issues are a constant battle in the lash industry. It’s always a guessing game to try and figure out why some clients rock their lashes for weeks and others don’t. There are a ton of possible reasons!!! A lot of things affect retention. Medication, change in hormones, clients stress level etc. I’m going to walk you through the top 5 issues. 90% of the time, one of these issues are to blame.
You aren’t placing the extension properly...
It is extremely important that the extension be properly placed every single time. The base of the extension should be flush against the natural lash. If the extension is lifted even a little bit, the extension will lift and pop off. I like to place the extension under the natural lash. I find that this technique gets the best retention. After the extension is placed lift the natural eyelash up against the extension to make sure the bond is completely attached. Check your work periodically. Look from the side to get a good view. Make sure none of the extensions are lifted. This takes practice. Master placement and watch your retention issues disappear.
Understanding your adhesive is extremely important. I like to think of it as a needy girlfriend. She’s needy and very temperamental. She needs to be handled with care. Her needs have to be met 100% of the time or she will turn on you. Unlike most women, she comes with an instruction manual. There is an exact temperature and humidity level that makes her happy. Stray from this and she will not perform for you.
Either get an adhesive that works for your environment or make your environment match the needs of the adhesive. I personally do not have patience to constantly keep my environment humid enough. I live in a dry climate. I like an adhesive that doesn’t need a lot of humidity.
You must store your adhesive in a airtight container. You can purchase adhesive holders. One hack that I have is to use an airtight tea container. I place the silica pack (comes with adhesive) in the tea container and replace it each time I get a new one.
You need to be administering a new glue dot every 15-20 minutes as you work.
You need to toss your adhesive and replace it with a new one every 4-6 weeks.
It is very important to follow all these instructions! Adhesives are an investment and one of the most important supplies we need. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
You aren’t prepping lashes...
Your client may claim that they just washed their lashes. The only way you will be 100% sure that you are working on a clean canvas is if you give them a wash yourself. I love our Pregame cleanser for this because there is no need to rinse. You may also consider using a primer after cleansing their lashes. Word of caution, some primers can be too drying. This will cause the lashes to be brittle. Look for a alcohol free formula. I personally don’t find it necessary to prime every client. I typically only use a primer for clients who tend to be naturally on the oiler side. Bottom line, adhesive will not bond to dirty lashes!
Sealants and Bonders. You do not have to use these products but they’re worth a try if you have a client who has sensitivities related to the adhesive, sleep on their lashes or can’t wait 24 hours before getting lashes wet. Insurance (one of my fave EyeCandy products) cures the adhesive without shock curing. It gives the bond more flexibility and reduces sensitivities. Clients may get lashes wet within 3 minutes after Insurance is applied
AfterCare AfterCare Aftercare. One more time for the folks in the back, AFTERCARE..
We must be going over the proper way to care for lash extensions. If you have a client who isn’t following instructs then you need to be in charge and remind them of how important it is to properly clean and care for their lashes. Explain to them that it is extremely important for the health of their eyes. They must follow instructions if they wish to continue being a client. If they say they are cleaning their lashes, ask them how they’re cleansing and how often. Allow them to answer this question. Then provide feedback and instruction where they are getting it wrong. Take a picture of the lash line from your view and show them what you are seeing. Explain to them that may not see the build up from their view when they are looking in the mirror. Explaining this in a kind way will help them not be defensive. There are a few other aftercare steps and precautions that our clients need to take if they want their lashes to last and look amazing in between infills.
No saunas, no mascara, cleanse daily, do not brush lashes while wet, brush daily, be aware of oils in makeup and skincare, no picking or rubbing lashes.
I hope this helps all you gorgeous lash babes ❤️